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Cake day: October 18th, 2023

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  • BogusCabbage@lemmy.worldtoFuck Cars@lemmy.worldI hate this shit
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    1 month ago

    I mean, these are ment to imply that you have become a hazard and stopping in the middle of the road do be pretty hazardous.

    Legitimate reasons to use it imo is If you’re gonna be stopped for less then a minute on the side of a road, otherwise find a park, if you need to stop and not somewhere you can park, get as far off the road as you can (ie shoulder of a freeway) or if you actually are in an emergency and need to stop, e.g. you’re car is suddenly externally combusting


  • Itasha goes deep, these “builds” are closer to shrines then anything else IMO. It isn’t for me, and not for many, but it isn’t the point, it isn’t to appeal to the masses, but to entertain ones self and truly indulge in their own tastes, personality and interest, same as Kaido racesr, Dekotora, Bosozoku or any other extreme car cultures. It is insane the effort people put in, but it is just for themselves, to entertain their passion, to take no shame, and really show who they are. Its really cool and I love the culture and history behind them all. If you’re interested in more, Noriyaro on YT has some videos of Itasha car events, shows off cool builds and talks about its history, really cool


  • Hey, Sorry I never got back to this comment, but just wanting to reply to say thanks! I never had really anything to add to this or ask about, hence I didn’t really, but over the week, I kept coming back to this comment as essentially a reference guide, and everything you mentioned here was very well thought out and has made everything go much more smoothly then I could have imagined, only hitch I am having right now is a “Could not save image” error when posting from the phone, but just bypassing it now by posting from a VM, But anyway, something to figure out over time. Again, just wanting to say thanks! You’ve been a massive help, and you’re a total legend! Much appreciated


  • This is exactly the plan. I go to a lot of meets, underground and public eye, so the plan is just to exchange at these events/meets. Currently there is just knowledge of people based on common of appearance and 1 person I have exchanged numbers with, but I have multiple people asking every meet for a IG or that alike asking to see what I shoot, and this is the sole reason of asking the question. I’d love to satisfy these people, be able to give them a page, a “portfolio” they are familiar with, but also somehow still keep my privacy with the systems I use





  • The other guy commenting is somewhat right, the user shouldn’t have bought this tool for DIY use, as most dealership software won’t work for DIY use because it is also a warranty tool, hence the need for a business license, the diagnostic software will record everything you do, upload a log file for the manufacturer to read to make sure they carry out the repairs correctly/services are inline with schedules, and they need that business license information so they know who to approve or deny a claim to. every manufacturer will have a software that does this and they shouldn’t be used for DIY use because it simply won’t work (unless there are cracked versions where people have remove that functionality, I believe there is software for Subaru and Toyota out there like this). There is other tools for the DIY use that are a fraction of the cost that does what you need, and most aren’t vehicle/brand specific, and good brands of OBD2 scanners will regularly pushout updates to cover more cars and more test functions over time. The issue mainly I see is manufacturers hide this information and unless you are well knowledged in the field or know a guy, the cheap and safe route is often so incredibly difficult to find and usually ends up in people confused and scared to work on their own cars, which sucks because the premise of all the hardware used in cars isn’t really that far from 50 years ago, software and 4-8km of wiring can scare people and the manufacturers want that because it scares people out of DIY fixes but still ticks the boxes of right to repair laws. (Sorry for the big comments, I can’t keep them small)


  • Nothing really, if it works, it works, But do have to be mindful though that the wind back function could also be a recalibration of the motor to know where the pistion is in some manufacturers. Some manufacturers the Body Control Module (BCM) might not care that it took 3 seconds longer then last time before there was resistance on the EPB, where as in some it’ll flag that there was a large discrepancy and put a warning on the dash and maybe disable the park brake, or ABS and the BCM will require a test function to be ran to recalibrate the EPB before regaining the functionality, but again this is manufacter specific



  • This isn’t a new thing. Almost every car that has an electrical park brake advises you to use software to change change out your rear brake pads, as when you release your Electric Park Brake (EPB), the EPB motor doesn’t wind back enough, to give you the space required to install new pads and/or rotors, it only winds back enough to release pressure off the piston pushing the pad, which this has been in production cars since 2001 (some cars have brake maintenance modes which can be activated without software, Mazda first comes to mind with this). This whole Hyundai/Kia deal reminds me of Volkswagen back when they were intoducting proprietary software for vehicle maintenance, which led to a guy getting mad and making his own software that does everything the factory software does for a fraction of the cost and arguably better (Rosstech/VCDS) which I feel will happen soon with Hyundai. But being mad just at just Hyundai for this is the wrong mindsent, almost every car manufacturer does this and for a long time, and needs to stop. Even for dealerships this is horrendous because it uses a always online software that if you live somewhere with bad internet or GPS connection, stops you from even just resetting the service interval, which as usual is explained as being a good thing for “safety reasons” by the manufacturer.




  • Work as a dealership mechanic and it is sad just how many steps manufacturers take to make it near impossible for the at home mechanic to work in their own vehicles. Most Japanese cars are more friendly, but even they can be a pain, anything euro really wants to make it hell for you. Don’t have much USDM experience, but I wouldn’t hold much faith out for them


  • I’ll add some notes to this guy, on the “no specialized tools required” this may be a misdirect.

    Depending on your vehicle, you may need an OBD reader to release the parking brake into a “servicing mode” (if your car has and E-parking brake (where there is a button to apply to parking brake instead of a just a typical hand brake) you’re most likely gonna need an ODB reader that has function tests) and some, mainly euro, cars have odd socket types for brake components, Torx and multispline/triple squares are common on VWAG, and E-Torx on anything Merc, your handbrake may also require a wind back tool as some don’t just “push” in. These are tools which can sometimes be a pain to find someone selling, or just annoyingly expensive.

    Also most modern cars, mainly euro again, will require rotor change every time you do pads as the rotors metal is hardened more on the inside, so if that is suggested, do it, might be more expensive, but if you don’t, it can become a lot more expensive.

    Sounds like me trying to advise you don’t do brakes, but no, doing your own work on cars can be a massive pain but also rewarding, and if you have to buy tools to get the job done, it sucks initially, but those tools can last a life time and help with with tons of other jobs, and if you’re like me, you get to appreciate the engineering into these simple components we take for granted, just do some research on your car, be safe and enjoy!

    Another word of advice, if you live near the coast or in any countries “rust belt”, penetrate oil can be a life saver!


  • If by actually help you mean does it ever fix things? No, an OBD reader will never fix a problem, it is just a diagnostic tool, it helps locating a problem without having to essentially do a full body scan by hand, kinda as if you had a leak in a house, and instead of having to inspect every pipe in the house tearing down walls, you just use a tool that tells you “leak found, upstairs shower, hot side valve”, yes you still could have found the leak just by hand if you wanted, but it might have taken days or weeks, and tons of money replacing unnecessary pipes.

    Its good you have a shop that did the OBD readout and gave you suggestions for free, most shops around me you’ll be paying hundreds for that, but I agree it still suck regardless that you are down a path that is gonna cost thousands, for what it is worth, if you have an airbag/SRS problem, an OBD reader definitely wouldn’t help as anything SRS is always really expensive, usually not just a case of plug and play parts, even just a broken wire isn’t just a simple soldering job and hardware adaptions very much are vehicle specific and can be timely if calibration is necessary


  • And if you’re up to spending a little more, you can buy OBD readers that are manufacturer specific which will give you details on what is setting off a code. VWAG cars are hell, but if you have VCDS/Rosstech (or ODIS if you can get your hands on it) simple plug and scan will majority of the time give you the exact cause with an event history of the code and not just a vauge “Bank 1 lean” etc, and even if you don’t want to do the repairs, if you know what is broken, ordering the parts and giving to a shop ends up being much cheaper and quicker then the cost of them doing the diagnosis and repairs



  • Late 90’s, Early 2000’s was a good time for reliable engineering, but it’s worth looking into owner groups for finding good reliable cars. Toyota, Honda, Mazda, Nissan, etc from the time was always likely to be a good choice, but still some are cheap to buy, expensive to own cars, and vice versa with the euro competitors. Many known for unreliability, but Audi, Alfa Romeo, Skoda, fiat, Opel and more, all had a few trusty and well built cars, as long as you can find a good owner history too and do the research


  • Yeah, a check engine light could be an emissions issue or simply a frayed sensor wire. However, it could be catastrophic and end up requiring an engine replacement. As a mechanic, I’d recommend taking the car to the nearest automotive parts store and asking them to check for codes, which they often can do for free or a small fee. Codes will indicate the type of problem and the severity, which you can then take to a mechanic. Avoid paying an $800 fix now could lead to a $17,000 transmission replacement later.